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August 14, 2009
iREPORTS FROM TAIWAN
by Patricia Shih, 1st violinist of Borealis String Quartet
Our trip to Taiwan, or Formosa, meaning "beautiful island", as the Portuguese called it, actually began on the other side of the Pacific with a farewell concert at our Vancouver "home" venue, the Christ Church Cathedral on May 9th. The program included one of our favorite Beethoven Quartets, the Op.59 No.2, a selection of Taiwanese folk songs, and the Souvenir de Florence from Tchaikovsky which we performed with two wonderful colleagues, Reginald Quiring and Eric Wilson. One could say it was a Beatles style Hello Goodbye event, with our hearts beating in excitement at the prospect of spending a month in a whirlwind of activity in bustling Taiwan, coupled with a longing tug, especially during the Tchaikovsky, at having to leave one of the most attractive cities in the world for an extended period. That said, the excitement definitely won over, especially with the anticipation that the trip would prove quite adventurous, especially with a toddler and Patricia's parents in tow!
How adventurous we had yet to find out as the trip began rather deceptively uneventful. Our red eye flight through Hong Kong arrived without a hitch on the morning of the 11th. We were picked up by Shih-Lin's parents and neighbours for a drive to Pingtung where we were to spend the first leg of our journey. On the way, we stopped at a lovely restaurant. Shih-Lin encouraged us to eat, and eat, and eat... Taiwan is definitely a gourmand's paradise. But Shih-Lin's motives were of another nature completely. It served, and successfully so, as an antidote to jetlag. In the evening, we were taken out to the vibrant and stimulating atmosphere of the night market where diverse fragrances danced in counterpoint with each other. We continued to fight the jetlag. It worked.
During the course of our first week, most of which we spent in Pingtung, we resided at the beautiful home of Shih-Lin's parents and were treated with touchingly generous hospitality. The spacious garden with fish ponds was a delight to us all, especially little Nicholas (Patricia's adorable 1 1/2 year old son) who gleefully spent time there each day with Patricia's parents.
We were introduced to many friends in the Chens circle, all of whom shared enthusiasm and passion. We were indeed amazed at the extent of the publicity work accomplished by just a few people, and moved by the utter fervour with which classical music is being embraced in Taiwan. Indeed, our very first event on the 13th began with a short concert in front of posters with photos of each of us twice our size! It certainly couldn't be missed and didn't even escape little Nicholas' attention as he ran up in the middle, pointing at the photo of his mother, affectionately announcing "Mama"! A press conference was also arranged for the TV and Shih-Lin eloquently spoke on our behalf for the interviewer.
We also gave many masterclasses, in Chia-I, Tainan and of course Pingtung. The students surprised us with the relatively high level, and the chamber groups who played in Tainan deserve particular mention for their musical sense and maturity. Again, we were knocked over by the dedication of these young people who crowded around us after each class seeking photos and autographs, even on their cases and music!
Our highlight of the week was the highly publicized concert in Pingtung where we played to a sold out crowd of 1200. Nearly half of the audience came back at the end of the concert for autographs! We seemed to do more work after the concert than during.
But the week was not without some hairy moments, with Nikita forgetting his concert attire for the very first concert. Luckily, one of the professors located a tall student who happened to have formal attire close by. The next day, it was Patricia's turn when the entire contents of milk tea landed on her clothes before the master class. An ensuing mad rush back to the Chens for a quick change! Then Yuel and Nikita's bike ride ended up as a "lost cause", only saved by Shih-Lin who located them hours later with the help of his motorcycle. Don't think the public would have been amused by quartet concerts minus two!
Well, it has been a really fantastic week, with work juxtaposed with a "healthy" dose of eating, tea drinking ( an elegant and lengthy ritual in Taiwan!), and meeting interesting people, including the owner of the largest orchid garden! One could hardly imagine the diversity of this beautiful plant. We were even invited to a sumptuous wedding where we were treated - you'll never guess - to an amazing variety of enticing dishes! We ate and ate.....to fight off the jetlag of course.
Our second week began in Tainan and ended up in Taipei. Like many cities, the name itself gives an idea of its geographical location. “Tai” comes from Taiwan, which originally emerged as Taiyouan meaning terrace bay. “Nan” mean south and “Pei” means north in Chinese; therefore Tainan would south terrace and Taipei north terrace. It's certainly a good way to orientate oneself if lost, if not terribly creative. Taiwanese people are known for their practical ways!
We had now settled into an Asian tempo, which was definitely few notches up the metronome from a more western tempo of living. We went briskly from meals to concerts to meals to interviews to autograph signings to meals again. The vibrancy and free-moving pace in the air kept us awake and mostly energetic. The constant eating didn't hurt either. No wonder Asias remain slim - heavy contemplation is definitely not part of their daily diet. They prefer to live life accepting the precondition that it would be full of ups and downs and therefore one shouldn't get boggled down by setbacks. Life moves forward after all, not backward. And so we too were propelled along by the force of support and activity in full swing.
We played to sold out crowds in Tainan, in Hualien, in Chunghwa. In Tainan, our photos were placed even on flags in the concert venue- we were a source of national pride! We performed there twice on the same day, first at the hospital where an entourage of media crew filmed our every move, and then again in the evening at the concert hall. Our “only” free day in Tainan was taken up by eating, eating and eating. The variety of fruits was extraordinary - delicious exotic mouthfuls never seen by us anywhere else. Unfortunately, little Nicholas had the misfortune to sit directly in front of the air conditioning unit at the restaurant and caught a cold.
But life goes on, and the next day, we took a train to the quiet and picturesque city of Hualien out in the countryside, and encounter our first rainfall since arriving in Taiwan. It was punctuated by Beethovenesque lightning and thunder. The regular rainfall made for beautiful greenery, but also the unwelcome presence of mosquitoes. It reminded us of certain parts of British Columbia and the Midwest.
We were taken to see some breathtaking views which served as inspiration for our concert in the evening which was again followed by lengthy autograph signings for our countless eager fans.
We spent the next day back in Pingtung at the Chens, where a much improved little Nicholas was overjoyed to see his favorite fish pond again. After many savoury delicacies, we headed back to Tainan to perform at the CHIMEI Museum. The hall was so packed that our friends and family couldn't get a single seat!
Our last stop of the week was in Chunghwa where we played at the hospital museum. The vice president of the hospital was so enamoured of our concert, he generously bought us high-speed train tickets to our next stop - Taipei, saving us time and energy. In just about an hour, we were in Taipei, and checking in at the posh Landis Hotel, where so many famous personalities have stayed, such as Duke Ellington, Martha Argerich, Rostropovich etc. Another lavish meal of hotpot rounded off our second week in Taiwan.
Four fast-paced weeks have now passed in a whirlwind of activity here in Taiwan and we have all gathered many,many lasting impressions of the country, its people and its way of life.
We have given concerts in many cities, at different venues, among them the National Taipei University, the Soochow University, the George Leslie Mackay Memorial Hospital, the CHIMEI Museum, the Canadian Trade Office Building, and the list goes on. We have given masterclasses, and have heard some of the brightest, most talented young musicians in Taiwan. We have also met with important dignitaries, and wealthy sponsors, some of whom have supported us generously in the past and continue to do so, such as the CHIMEI Culture Foundation, as well as others who will play an important role in our lives as a quartet in future years to come. We have met those who have the potential to make a mark in the future of this island country as well as those(such as the grandson of George Leslie Mackay, a missionary from Canada who founded schools, hospitals, etc. here in the 1880's) who are carrying the legacy of notable figures in past Taiwanese history.
It has been at times inspiring, relaxing(especially the great massages!) playful( students teasing Shih-Lin at his infamous former naughty antics revealed by his former teachers during a class), exhilirating(the packed audiences),amusing (finding rows of sushi at the corner 7/11), touching(little Nicholas' face upon finding the fish pond again) even exhausting(the countless autographs and photos) and sad (seeing angelic little Nicholas sick from the over air conditioning at one restaurant) but always interesting and human. One cannot help but feel the impact of the vitality, the underlying pulsating energy of this country. It dawns upon you that people are full of hope here - they aspire towards what can be achieved, what must be achieved. And the respect with which we as classical musicians are treated here is gratifying, fulfilling and moving. Chamber music is still considered relatively new here - something still to be explored, developed.
In between the travel, the concerts, the masterclasses, the press conferences, and meetings, we were given the opportunity to see some breathtaking natural sights, in Hualien, which of course reminded us, as good Canadians, of the Rocky Mountains, as well as be fascinated by the Chinese historical artifacts at the National Palace Museum. We were all in awe at the advanced technological and artistic accomplishments of early Chinese history. We even joined in the vigorous celebrations of the Dragon Boat Festival. As usual Taiwanese, Chinese, or heck, Asian custom dictates, there were the special foods to be eaten during the event, the delicious filled sticky rice wrapped in bamboo leaves, or “Tsong-Tse. There was never a lack of food - everything from the freshest seafood, live shrimps on hot stones, blood rice cakes, pork feet, stinky tofu, special dumplings and noodles to exotic fruits not found anywhere else, bubble tea, and ice grass jelly desserts. As Patricia remarked, we have many obligations, but we always seem to still find time to eat before, during and after each one! No wonder everyone's so petite here. Chalk it up to Asian logic!
"Love at first bite"
Our trip to Taiwan, or Formosa, meaning "beautiful island", as the Portuguese called it, actually began on the other side of the Pacific with a farewell concert at our Vancouver "home" venue, the Christ Church Cathedral on May 9th. The program included one of our favorite Beethoven Quartets, the Op.59 No.2, a selection of Taiwanese folk songs, and the Souvenir de Florence from Tchaikovsky which we performed with two wonderful colleagues, Reginald Quiring and Eric Wilson. One could say it was a Beatles style Hello Goodbye event, with our hearts beating in excitement at the prospect of spending a month in a whirlwind of activity in bustling Taiwan, coupled with a longing tug, especially during the Tchaikovsky, at having to leave one of the most attractive cities in the world for an extended period. That said, the excitement definitely won over, especially with the anticipation that the trip would prove quite adventurous, especially with a toddler and Patricia's parents in tow!
How adventurous we had yet to find out as the trip began rather deceptively uneventful. Our red eye flight through Hong Kong arrived without a hitch on the morning of the 11th. We were picked up by Shih-Lin's parents and neighbours for a drive to Pingtung where we were to spend the first leg of our journey. On the way, we stopped at a lovely restaurant. Shih-Lin encouraged us to eat, and eat, and eat... Taiwan is definitely a gourmand's paradise. But Shih-Lin's motives were of another nature completely. It served, and successfully so, as an antidote to jetlag. In the evening, we were taken out to the vibrant and stimulating atmosphere of the night market where diverse fragrances danced in counterpoint with each other. We continued to fight the jetlag. It worked.
During the course of our first week, most of which we spent in Pingtung, we resided at the beautiful home of Shih-Lin's parents and were treated with touchingly generous hospitality. The spacious garden with fish ponds was a delight to us all, especially little Nicholas (Patricia's adorable 1 1/2 year old son) who gleefully spent time there each day with Patricia's parents.
We were introduced to many friends in the Chens circle, all of whom shared enthusiasm and passion. We were indeed amazed at the extent of the publicity work accomplished by just a few people, and moved by the utter fervour with which classical music is being embraced in Taiwan. Indeed, our very first event on the 13th began with a short concert in front of posters with photos of each of us twice our size! It certainly couldn't be missed and didn't even escape little Nicholas' attention as he ran up in the middle, pointing at the photo of his mother, affectionately announcing "Mama"! A press conference was also arranged for the TV and Shih-Lin eloquently spoke on our behalf for the interviewer.
We also gave many masterclasses, in Chia-I, Tainan and of course Pingtung. The students surprised us with the relatively high level, and the chamber groups who played in Tainan deserve particular mention for their musical sense and maturity. Again, we were knocked over by the dedication of these young people who crowded around us after each class seeking photos and autographs, even on their cases and music!
Our highlight of the week was the highly publicized concert in Pingtung where we played to a sold out crowd of 1200. Nearly half of the audience came back at the end of the concert for autographs! We seemed to do more work after the concert than during.
But the week was not without some hairy moments, with Nikita forgetting his concert attire for the very first concert. Luckily, one of the professors located a tall student who happened to have formal attire close by. The next day, it was Patricia's turn when the entire contents of milk tea landed on her clothes before the master class. An ensuing mad rush back to the Chens for a quick change! Then Yuel and Nikita's bike ride ended up as a "lost cause", only saved by Shih-Lin who located them hours later with the help of his motorcycle. Don't think the public would have been amused by quartet concerts minus two!
Well, it has been a really fantastic week, with work juxtaposed with a "healthy" dose of eating, tea drinking ( an elegant and lengthy ritual in Taiwan!), and meeting interesting people, including the owner of the largest orchid garden! One could hardly imagine the diversity of this beautiful plant. We were even invited to a sumptuous wedding where we were treated - you'll never guess - to an amazing variety of enticing dishes! We ate and ate.....to fight off the jetlag of course.
"Eight days a week"
Our second week began in Tainan and ended up in Taipei. Like many cities, the name itself gives an idea of its geographical location. “Tai” comes from Taiwan, which originally emerged as Taiyouan meaning terrace bay. “Nan” mean south and “Pei” means north in Chinese; therefore Tainan would south terrace and Taipei north terrace. It's certainly a good way to orientate oneself if lost, if not terribly creative. Taiwanese people are known for their practical ways!
We had now settled into an Asian tempo, which was definitely few notches up the metronome from a more western tempo of living. We went briskly from meals to concerts to meals to interviews to autograph signings to meals again. The vibrancy and free-moving pace in the air kept us awake and mostly energetic. The constant eating didn't hurt either. No wonder Asias remain slim - heavy contemplation is definitely not part of their daily diet. They prefer to live life accepting the precondition that it would be full of ups and downs and therefore one shouldn't get boggled down by setbacks. Life moves forward after all, not backward. And so we too were propelled along by the force of support and activity in full swing.
We played to sold out crowds in Tainan, in Hualien, in Chunghwa. In Tainan, our photos were placed even on flags in the concert venue- we were a source of national pride! We performed there twice on the same day, first at the hospital where an entourage of media crew filmed our every move, and then again in the evening at the concert hall. Our “only” free day in Tainan was taken up by eating, eating and eating. The variety of fruits was extraordinary - delicious exotic mouthfuls never seen by us anywhere else. Unfortunately, little Nicholas had the misfortune to sit directly in front of the air conditioning unit at the restaurant and caught a cold.
But life goes on, and the next day, we took a train to the quiet and picturesque city of Hualien out in the countryside, and encounter our first rainfall since arriving in Taiwan. It was punctuated by Beethovenesque lightning and thunder. The regular rainfall made for beautiful greenery, but also the unwelcome presence of mosquitoes. It reminded us of certain parts of British Columbia and the Midwest.
We were taken to see some breathtaking views which served as inspiration for our concert in the evening which was again followed by lengthy autograph signings for our countless eager fans.
We spent the next day back in Pingtung at the Chens, where a much improved little Nicholas was overjoyed to see his favorite fish pond again. After many savoury delicacies, we headed back to Tainan to perform at the CHIMEI Museum. The hall was so packed that our friends and family couldn't get a single seat!
Our last stop of the week was in Chunghwa where we played at the hospital museum. The vice president of the hospital was so enamoured of our concert, he generously bought us high-speed train tickets to our next stop - Taipei, saving us time and energy. In just about an hour, we were in Taipei, and checking in at the posh Landis Hotel, where so many famous personalities have stayed, such as Duke Ellington, Martha Argerich, Rostropovich etc. Another lavish meal of hotpot rounded off our second week in Taiwan.
"Lasting Impressions"
Four fast-paced weeks have now passed in a whirlwind of activity here in Taiwan and we have all gathered many,many lasting impressions of the country, its people and its way of life.
We have given concerts in many cities, at different venues, among them the National Taipei University, the Soochow University, the George Leslie Mackay Memorial Hospital, the CHIMEI Museum, the Canadian Trade Office Building, and the list goes on. We have given masterclasses, and have heard some of the brightest, most talented young musicians in Taiwan. We have also met with important dignitaries, and wealthy sponsors, some of whom have supported us generously in the past and continue to do so, such as the CHIMEI Culture Foundation, as well as others who will play an important role in our lives as a quartet in future years to come. We have met those who have the potential to make a mark in the future of this island country as well as those(such as the grandson of George Leslie Mackay, a missionary from Canada who founded schools, hospitals, etc. here in the 1880's) who are carrying the legacy of notable figures in past Taiwanese history.
It has been at times inspiring, relaxing(especially the great massages!) playful( students teasing Shih-Lin at his infamous former naughty antics revealed by his former teachers during a class), exhilirating(the packed audiences),amusing (finding rows of sushi at the corner 7/11), touching(little Nicholas' face upon finding the fish pond again) even exhausting(the countless autographs and photos) and sad (seeing angelic little Nicholas sick from the over air conditioning at one restaurant) but always interesting and human. One cannot help but feel the impact of the vitality, the underlying pulsating energy of this country. It dawns upon you that people are full of hope here - they aspire towards what can be achieved, what must be achieved. And the respect with which we as classical musicians are treated here is gratifying, fulfilling and moving. Chamber music is still considered relatively new here - something still to be explored, developed.
In between the travel, the concerts, the masterclasses, the press conferences, and meetings, we were given the opportunity to see some breathtaking natural sights, in Hualien, which of course reminded us, as good Canadians, of the Rocky Mountains, as well as be fascinated by the Chinese historical artifacts at the National Palace Museum. We were all in awe at the advanced technological and artistic accomplishments of early Chinese history. We even joined in the vigorous celebrations of the Dragon Boat Festival. As usual Taiwanese, Chinese, or heck, Asian custom dictates, there were the special foods to be eaten during the event, the delicious filled sticky rice wrapped in bamboo leaves, or “Tsong-Tse. There was never a lack of food - everything from the freshest seafood, live shrimps on hot stones, blood rice cakes, pork feet, stinky tofu, special dumplings and noodles to exotic fruits not found anywhere else, bubble tea, and ice grass jelly desserts. As Patricia remarked, we have many obligations, but we always seem to still find time to eat before, during and after each one! No wonder everyone's so petite here. Chalk it up to Asian logic!